About retinol and retinoids in skin care

Retinol is a retinoid but not each retinoid is retinol. Did I lose you already? Please keep on reading, it does get easier…

Retinoids is an umbrella term for the entire family of Vitamin A derivates, which includes both prescription and over-the-counter products.

Retinol is probably the most famous one in this group of active ‘skin-improving’ ingredients and is available in over-the-counter products.

Retinoids are considered the ‘holy grail of actives in skincare’. They are multifunctional:

- normalise skin cell turnover making the skin less dull, hence the term ‘retinoid glow’

- reduce oiliness and help with blemishes,

- quieten down the production of excess pigmentation which will help to even out tone and pigmentation issues

- stimulate collagen production and prevent collagen breakdown which will result in improving and preventing fine lines.

You can find below all the members of the retinoid family, ranged FROM THE STRONGEST TO WEAKEST members of the family:

Retinoic acid (also known as tretinoin) is the most effective one, but is only available on prescription.
Retinoid acid esters such as hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR, also known as granactive retinoid) and retinyl retinoate.
Retinol, the most famous one
Retinaldehyde (also known as retinal)
Retinol esthers such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propriona The very mildest ones, unlikely to cause any irritation but also not very effective.

The strongest ones will be the most effective ones, but are often less well tolerated, especially in ‘retinoid newbies’.

Important tips for those who want to add a retinol to their skincare:

Do not expect results from retinoids overnight! Retinoids are used at night and should be used at least 12 weeks before you can start to see results
Always start slow and build up. You might wonder what it means to start slow: start the product with a low frequency and a small amount and increase the frequency and amount over the next weeks. For a retinoid newbie, this would mean to start twice a week with less than a pea-size amount and slowly build up to daily use of a pea-size amount (or instructed otherwise by the specific product). Some people can increase faster than others, everyone’s skin is unique!
Always use a sunscreen in the morning, always!, but especially when you are using a retinoid as your skin will burn more easily
Moisturise your eyes before applying your retinoid and avoid going with your retinoid close to your eyes unless it is a product specially developed for the eye area
If you use more retinoid than is good for you, your skin will become red and flakey. It does not mean you are allergic to it, it means you cannot tolerate it. Stop, rest and try again if you re brave enough, but at a lower pace.
Always introduce only one new product at a time
Oily skin tends to tolerate retinoids better than dry skin.
If you have sensitive skin, you might want to work on the skin barrier first before adding in a retinoid.
Discuss with your practitioner if in doubt of how/when to use retinoids or if you suffer from irritation with the mildest retinoids